Do I really want a Jindo?

(re-posted/revised from the Jindo Rescue Resource site with full permission from author)
 
 

The Physical Aspects:

The Jindo is a strong, medium-sized dog that typically ranges from 35-45 lbs.  They are an active breed and as such require space to run and exercise.  Unless one can walk and exercise a Jindo everyday, one should only get a Jindo if one has a fenced yard at least 6 ft high.  Some Jindos are expert escape artists, climbing trees and fences or digging out of yards, so one should be prepared to deal with their escape attempts.

Letting a Jindo run free is not an option as they are highly unreliable on recalls.  Jindos must be kept on a leash whenever out in public.  "No-slip" collars are strongly recommended as many Jindos have escaped when on a simple buckle collar.

Jindos have a double-coat and will shed profusely twice a year (fur falls out in clumps).  Although warm baths and regular brushings help in containing this fur, expect your vacuum and lint-remover to be well-worked during these times.

Other than a few cases of hypothyroidism, the genetic diseases in this breed are still unknown.  Jindos are usually a healthy breed but some do seem to be sensitive to high amounts of corn in their dry dog food.  For this reason, cheap, lower-end dog foods are not recommended.
 

The Temperamental Aspects:

Please pay special attention to the temperamental aspects of this breed.  Many Jindos have been given up because their owners were not prepared to deal with the temperament of their dogs.

The Jindo breed has evolved into its present state by hunting deer, boar, and small animals on their own.  They have a high prey drive and should be cautiously introduced to other pets and animals in a family.   Some Jindos will accept other household animals as family members, but some other Jindos will not.  Strange animals will most likely be viewed as prey and the Jindo will most likely be untrustworthy around them.

The Jindo is an intelligent breed.  Perhaps too intelligent.  They have the ability to easily learn new commands and tricks, including how to open cages or escape from yards.  It should be noted though that inherent intelligence does not necessarily equate to automatic trainability.  The Jindo is also an independent breed and a rappore between dog and handler must be present before a Jindo responds with enthusiasm.  For this reason, the Jindo responds best to obedience training that utilizes a balance of positive reinforcement and judicious negative reinforcement by its owner.  Handing off a Jindo to be trained by someone else, especially someone who uses only heavy-handed methods, will cause the dog to balk and "shut down."

Jindos are very territorial dogs.  A Jindo rarely barks without cause, but when he/she does, the bark (a woo-woo-woo sound) is deep and penetratingly loud.  They have a highly developed sense of territory and will defend it tenaciously from intruders.  They do not need to be chained or trained to bring this defensiveness out.  Unfortunately, there can be complications when the dog's definition of intruder conflicts with their owners.  This doesn't happen very often when the owner is present, but this instead happens when the Jindo is alone or allowed to wander free.

Jindos are reknown for their ability to escape and so the concept of a territorial dog that wanders might sound contradictory, but that's not so in the Jindo's mind.  Your Jindo is not "roaming" in its mind.  It is conquering new frontiers and enlarging its kingdom.  This can go over poorly with your harassed neighbors and endangers your Jindo's life as even the quick and nimble Jindo cannot avoid a speeding car.  A person must know how to responsibly restrain a dog in order to responsibly own a Jindo.

Owning a Jindo can lead to certain inconveniences.  For instance, abruptly assigning a new house sitter while you go on vacation might not go well with the Jindo.  (How is the dog to know if the sitter is an intruder or not?)  Kenneling a Jindo in an unfamilar boarding kennel/location can unduly stress the dog.  Planning ahead, socializing the dog in various kennel settings, and introducing the dog to a new sitter, goes a long ways in smoothing out these potential problems.
 

Probably the most difficult aspect of the Jindo is its dominant nature.  Good quality purebred Jindos should not be dominance aggressive towards human family members, but unfortunately, the breeding of poor quality dogs or mixes among backyard breeders and unscrupulous breeders have caused the number of dominance aggressive dogs to increase.  Professional advice is strongly advised when this occurs, especially if there are children in the family.

If there are other dogs in the household, the Jindo will try to move up in the pack order after the puppy turns 6 months of age or a few weeks after an adult has accepted the home as its own.  This is normal behavior for this breed.  These shifts in pack order will probably include dog fights and so the Jindo is not for the inexperienced or timid individual.  It is ill-advised to get a Jindo, even a puppy, if one already has a dominant dog of the same sex.

A properly socialized Jindo is a supremely self-confident animal and should not be dog aggressive on neutral territory.   When its personal space is invaded or directly challenged by another dog, the Jindo will most likely react with extreme displeasure, but otherwise, they should not be snarling and snapping uncontrollably at the sight of another dog.

Undersocialized or fearful animals will sometimes react with a threat display and so its very important to socialize your Jindo as much as possible.  Obedience school is recommended at 6 months of age, but earlier socialization under safe, controlled conditions is strongly recommended for this inherently suspicious breed.

Sadly, there are Jindos that have been bred for dog-fighting or mixed with pitbulls and so there will be dogs that are extremely dog aggressive even on neutral territory.  In these cases, dog aggression can be controlled by intensive training but never completely eliminated.   The owner must be aware of this and take appropriate precautions to prevent the chances of a dog fight.
 
 

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Other Things to Consider When Getting a Dog:

Don't get one on impulse!

This animal is going to be a part of your family for the next 10 to 15 years. Give that choice all the consideration it deserves.

It's very easy to fall in love with a warm, snugly, licky-faced puppy or with the deep, intelligent gaze of a beautiful, dignified adult.  If you add to the fact the idea of owning a "Korean Natural Treasure," the breed sounds very irresistable.  But unless you have considered all of the consequences of that decision you are already off on the wrong foot. The entire family or household should be consulted. And if you find yourself with one holdout that doesn't want to have to take care of a dog or puppy, respect that decision and don't force them, even if you choose to go ahead.

Don't buy pets as gifts

Often you will find that people will purchase a puppy for a friend or relative for one of the following reasons.

1) That person recently lost a beloved pet.

While they may be lonely and miss having a dog around the house, that doesn't mean they are ready for a new dog. Everyone grieves differently and some may need months or even years before they are really ready to take on that responsibility again. When they are ready, they may want a different breed to avoid comparisons to their old dog. Some people, while grieving the loss of their beloved friend, may also welcome the freedom of not having to care for a pet. Also, with children, think about the message you're sending when a beloved family member dies and a couple of days or weeks later you're out getting a "replacement."

2) The puppy is a gift for a child. (We want them to learn how to be responsible.)

Many parents also buy puppies for kids hoping it will teach them responsibility. Cleaning up accidents is a job that even most adults dislike. Expecting a child to do it willingly (for more than the first few days) is asking for trouble. Also, don't expect a child that has shown little or no responsibility in other areas to buckle down for the puppy.

Other things to consider are what will happen to the dog once the kids leave home to go to college or raise their own families and may not be in a position to care for the dog. With the dog having a life span of ten or more years this is something you need to think about even if your children are only six or seven years old. Also, what will happen to the puppy if after a few weeks or months or even a few years the child's interests in extra curricular activities keeps them away from home? Are the parents willing and able to care for the puppy or dog? And what happens if the puppy you purchase has a problem? An adult can reason that if a puppy has a problem they need to return it, but that can be heart breaking for a child. Not to mention that any number of children have worried themselves over whether their parents will "take them back" too if they get sick.

Another important thing to consider when you bring a puppy into your home is that puppies chew and jump. Toys will get destroyed, as well as socks, shoes, hats, gloves or any item left within the puppy's reach. If you have small children, an exuberant puppy jumping up to kiss their faces could scare them silly. With either of these situations you could very easily find yourself in the position of having a child that dreads the sight of the dog. Plan ahead. Make sure the children know to pick up the toys when "Puppy" is around. Set up a "toy-free" area for your puppy to live in during the housebreaking period (which we believe to include learning not to chew). Make sure the puppy is confined to a small "child-free" area, unless it is supervised, until it learns how to behave around the children.

3) The puppy is a gift for my father/mother/friend/etc.

Before you buy someone a puppy, make sure that they really want it and are physically and financially able to care for it. Some people will daydream about getting a dog but when it gets down to it they aren't really ready. You would be doing a great disservice to everyone involved by not making sure they really want it. Because if they don't, you could be looking at another unwanted dog that will have to be euthanized at the pound while that same dog could have lived a happy and healthy life with a family that was really ready.

Please think about that decision before you buy. You don't want to add to the numbers of dogs ending up in the pound.

Am I Ready Financially?

Most people are primarily concerned about the purchase price of the puppy. And while for some breeds or from some breeders this could be a formidable obstruction, with most puppies you should be more concerned about the cost of supplies and follow-up care.

When you call breeders, ask what the average price for a good quality pet puppy of their breed is. Several words of warning here: the first question out of your mouth should not be how much a breeder charges for their puppies. For us at least, this question sends up all sorts of red flags as to the person's motives and reasons for buying the puppy. Secondly, beware of "breeders" that sell their puppies, especially the older ones (over 10 or 11 weeks ), or even young puppies unsold after the holidays, for ridiculously low prices compared to the normal for that area. These people's motives may be more financial, than really in the best interests of the puppy. It may be far easier for them to sell a puppy at a low price than have to feed and care for it until a good home comes along. This doesn't mean there aren't some responsible breeders who breed occasionally and don't charge a large fee, but you need to be cautious. Finally, if after exhausting your options for "responsible breeders," you find that you simply can't afford a puppy you might want to consider adopting or rescuing an older dog.

In addition to the purchase price you should expect the following expenses:
 

Veterinary bills:

 
Food:

This will vary depending on the breed, size, and activity level of the dog. Ask the breeder what brand they use and how much it costs them to feed an average adult of their breed.  Avoid dog foods with corn as its main ingredient.

Other:

Equipment - Crate (cage), bowls, leashes (preferably leather), collars, combs, brushes, nail clippers, scissors, chew toys.

Licenses - Check with your local town hall or county animal control for costs in your area.  Some areas charge additional amounts for unaltered dogs or # of dogs exceeding a certain number.

Replacement cost of chewed and soiled items if not using a crate.

Boarding fees if you like to take vacations which you can't bring the dog on.

If you live in an apartment or condo, you may need to provide an additional security deposit in order to keep your pet.
 

Am I Ready Physically?

Housing

Do you rent? If you do, check your lease or with your landlord to see if pets are allowed and for any size restrictions. Don't buy the puppy or dog first and hope they don't find out or will change their minds because he's so cute.

If you live in a condo or in some housing developments, there may be some restrictions as to whether or not you can have a dog and, if you can have them, as to the size. Look into these things first. You do not want to be put in the position of having to choose between your dog and your home.

You should plan on some sort of secure area for your puppy to stay when it is outdoors unless it is on leash. We prefer fully fenced yards, especially when there are young children (that tend to forget to close doors). If you can't fence your entire yard a fenced pen can work well.

Am I physically able to meet my puppy's needs for feeding, walking, and companionship?

Puppies, especially very young ones, need to be fed and walked frequently. Is there someone to take care of this? If not, expect housebreaking to be a long, drawn-out process.

Dogs need a certain amount of daily company. Do you work long hours and then spend the evenings out partying? If so, you would be best off with a cat rather than a dog.

Does anyone in the family have allergies or problems with mobility that would limit their ability to keep or care for a puppy? If you or someone in your family has allergies, a dog isn't out of the question but your options are considerably more limited. If someone in your home has physical limitations, you will need to be very careful about choosing a breed where the adult dog will be able to adapt to their needs.

A responsible breeder is going to ask you about your lifestyle and the physical arrangements for the care of the puppy. It's to your advantage to have thought of these things before you talk to the breeders.